Austin ” Capitol-izing on Cool
Places 19 years ago No Comments


contributed by James LeDoux [IT training consultant / travel enthusiast / dancing machine]


The first thing Austinites would like you to know is that Austin doesn’t fit the stereotype of Texas. Sporting nicknames like the “Live Music Capital of the World” and “The Silicon Hills,” Austin is a unique city teeming with fun, friendly people. Nestled in the Hill Country of Texas, Austin is a beautiful city where visitors of all interests can find something to love. Whether it is boating on the surrounding lakes, hiking through the city’s Greenbelts, listening to live music in a funky venue, or carousing in the downtown bars and clubs, Austin offers many reasons to visit. Be careful though, many of the transplanted residents did just that and never left.

Aside from the musical pedigree, the State Capitol of Texas routinely shows up in the Best Places to Live in the U.S. polls compiled by Forbes. In 2003 the city added to its list of awards by topping the list of “Best Places for Singles.” This type of attention led to the recent filming of the latest season of MTV’s The Real World in Austin.

By far the most liberal and funky town in Texas, Austin boasts a rich musical history that includes the likes of Janis Joplin, Stevie Ray Vaughn, and Willie Nelson, to name only a few. Austin isn’t a city that stands on its past success in music either. Each year the city hosts two premier music events that draw music lovers and industry executives from all over the world: South by Southwest and the Austin City Limits Music Festival.

Assuming you can sneak away from classes or work for a long weekend trip, this four-day itinerary will give you plenty to choose from on your future trip to Austin.


The Four-Day Itinerary: Day 1 – Thursday

Before Sunset
If you can make it into town before nightfall, I’d suggest starting your first day off at the South Congress Avenue Bridge to watch the sunset. It’s a scenic spot where you can see the dome of the Capitol Building , the appealing Austin skyline, and the blue water of Town Lake. Plus, this location is home to some of Austin ’s most famous residents: Mexican free-tailed bats. The bat colony usually arrives in March and returns to Mexico in November. The best viewing months are considered to be July and August.

SoCo Loco
The first Thursday night of each month offers a fun first night’s into to the quirky and cool side of Austin. Just south of Town Lake on Congress Avenue you will find one of the funkier and older areas called South Congress. Recently dubbed “SoCo” by someone with too much time on their hands, this street is a fun mix of old thrift stores, the historic Continental Club, and several hip new restaurants looking to bask in the coolness of South Austin. Expect to hear live bands on the street, browse through stores with extended hours, and you will likely receive free beer or snacks provided by the stores to draw in the locals.

Go Fish
Located on South Congress, 7 is one of the best-kept secrets in Austin. Featuring a tremendous selection of fresh seafood, 7 offers a unique dining experience. Rather than overdosing on huge portions, choose a variety of small 3-ounce servings. This way you get to try more types of fish and vary their preparations according to your mood. Their sauces are amazing, and the scalloped potatoes are sinful. Not to stretch your expectations too much, but during a recent visit my best friend Rob eschewed dessert in favor of a second dish of potatoes. This restaurant is small so be sure to call ahead for a reservation. If 7 is booked, try the nearby South Austin Café or Vespaio – both also excellent.

7
Address: 1716 South Congress
Phone: (512) 383-8877
Cost: Entrees from $12

Go Continental
After working up a thirst exploring SoCo, stop in for a drink at the Continental Club. This throwback club has been open since 1957. Nightly acts range from swing bands, live up and coming acts, and the occasional big stars. Check the web or call ahead to see who is playing.

Continental Club
Address: 1315 South Congress Avenue
Website: www.continentalclub.com
Phone: (512) 441-2444
Cost: Cover ranges from $5 – 20

Check Yo’ Ego
Another nearby standby on South Congress is Ego’s Bar. Belying its lofty name, Ego’s is an unassuming bar perfect for throwing back a few drinks with friends before moving on to see what else the Austin nightlife has to offer. Some locals do consider this place a little pricey for what you are getting but it is another great spot to hear live music on South Congress.

Ego’s Bar
Address: 510 South Congress Avenue
Phone: (512) 474-7091
Cost: Cover can range $5*15 depending on act

No Longer By The Hour
If you would like to hit a hipper/trendy spot on South Congress stop by the Hotel San Jose’s bar. Opened in 1936 as the San Jose Court, the hotel was notorious for its proclivity for renting rooms by the hour. Refurbished and reborn by new ownership, it is now a hip spot to see and be seen. Rooms start at $155 so you may consider it a little pricey for Austin. However if you compare this rate to corporate national chains, it is not really out of line.

Hotel San Jose
Address: 1316 South Congress
Website: www.sanjosehotel.com
Phone: (512) 444-7342
Cost: Drinks start at $4 and rooms at $155

Magnificent Mud
Austin offers plenty of options for late night dining. Sticking with the Congress Avenue theme, a good spot to try would be the local favorite Magnolia Café. Magnolia is a bohemian joint where all are welcome for 24-hour breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The Magnolia Cafe offers a mix of Tex-Mex and standard breakfast fare. Be sure to try the Mag Mud, a tasty blend of black beans, queso, avacado, and pico de gallo. Served with chips and hot sauce, this staple will stave off the most severe munchies and temper any lingering effects of too many adult beverages. Other favorites include their enchiladas and omelets.

Magnolia Café
Address: 1920 South Congress Avenue
Website: www.cafemagnolia.com
Phone: (512) 478-8645
Cost: Meals range from $3 – 15 per person


The Four-Day Itinerary: Day 2 – Friday

Spring Into Action!
Tucked into the heart of Zilker Park lies one of Austin’s crown jewels: Barton Springs. This rock-lined icon is three acres in size and holds a year round of temperature of 68 degrees. Nestled among centuries old pecan trees and grassy slopes even non-swimmers will bask in the beauty of Barton Spring.

Barton Springs
Address: 2101 Barton Springs Road (located in Zilker Park )
Website: www.ci.austin.tx.us/parks/bartonsprings.htm
Phone: (512) 476-9044
Cost: $1 per child and $3 for adults

Grab Some Shade
After working up an appetite, there are plenty of nearby restaurants on Barton Springs Road for you to check out. Just down the street and within waling distance of Baton Springs is one of my favorite lunch spots: Shady Grove. As the name suggest, Shady Grove is set in a large grove of trees that offer relief from the hot Texas sun. Styled after 1940s-style state parks, the Grove features a funky collection of trailers and lawn art. Their menu features home cooking served up with a little Texas flair. My favorite is the Queso Catfish: fried catfish served on plate drizzled with cheese sauce and accompanied by jalapeno twice-baked potatoes. If that doesn’t catch your fancy then try one of their massive salads or many veggie dishes. They also sell cool t-shirts, so keep your eye out for a fun find.

Shady Grove
Address: 1624 Barton Springs Road
Website: www.theshadygrove.com
Phone: (512) 474-9991
Cost: From $5 – 12 per entree

You Scream, I Scream
A nice spot to grab a quick snack is one of the Amy’s Ice Creams nearby locations. Known for it’s wacky staff and unique flavors, this local favorite will not disappoint even the most serious ice cream fan. Handcrafted flavors are mixed with your favorite toppings and served with style. Mexican Vanilla topped with Reece’s Peanut Butter Cups is my personal favorite; however, you can expect to see seasonal flavors ranging from Guinness to White Coffee Crunch. There are multiple locations all over the city but the one below is close to Barton Springs.

Amy’s Ice Creams
Address: 600 N. Lamar Suite 1012-B
Website: www.amysicecream.com
Phone: (512) 480-0673
Cost: $2 – 6 depending on size and toppings

Music To Your Ears
While munching on Amy’s Ice Cream, I always walk around the corner to Waterloo Records & Video. This local Austin music store has a phenomenal selection of local Austin music and hard-to-find imports. Listening booths are available to make sure you like your selection, and it’s a great place to expand your musical boundaries. The staff is extremely knowledgeable, and they also have a great selection of unique DVDs and videos.

Waterloo Records & Video
Address: 600 A North Lamar
Website: www.waterloorecords.com
Phone: (512) 474-2500
Cost: Typical CD prices

Honky Tonk
For those visitors who yearn to see what country dancing is all about I suggest you stop by The Broken Spoke. Back in the sixties, the Spoke played host to countless country super stars and legends. George Strait, Ernest Tubb, Roy Acuff, and even Bob Wills tipped their hats from the stage at the far end of this old dance hall. Pictures of famous visitors adorn the walls, and this place is a frequent stop for Hollywood types filming in Austin. James Cahn and Clint Eastwood are two stars (to name a few) that have been seen in this joint. Willie Nelson started playing at the Spoke, and it is no secret that he frequently can be found in the club when he is in town. He played at the Spoke in his early days, and the place holds a special place in his heart. Take the experience to the next level try the chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes. This cheap meal will stick to your ribs and prepare you for a long night of dancing.

The Broken Spoke
Address: 3201 South Lamar
Website: www.brokenspokeaustintx.com
Phone: (512) 442-6189
Cost: Cover ranges from $5 – 15 depending on the act

Friday Night Lights
The seven-block stretch located between Congress Avenue and Interstate Highway 35 is the heart of Austin ’s entertainment district and known simply as 6th Street. Lined with bars and live music venues, this is the perfect place to see and be seen on a Friday night. The 6th Street crowd is a unique blend of all types, and this is a must-see for people watching. Pete’s Piano Bar offers a rowdy and raunchy place to have a few beers. For a few bucks you can have one of the dueling piano players roast an unsuspecting friend on stage, and this feature makes the place well worth the $5 cover on special occasions. Joe’s Generic Bar is a good place to catch live blues at cheap prices.

For those looking to start the night off quickly, my favorite place to grab a shot on 6th Street is Touché Shot Bar. The Flaming Dr Pepper Shot is a showstopper that can be had as long as the fire marshal has not been by recently. This shot of beer topped with a flaming 151 and amaretto is something to be seen if you are not faint of heart. Be sure to have your camera ready and stand back. (Do, of course, drink responsibly.)

There are too many bars to name them all but poke around and be sure to hit as many as you can. Most bars and clubs don’t charge a cover since Austinites will rarely pay an entrance fee unless there is a live band or a premier DJ visiting from out of town. There are plenty of police officers on patrol on 6th Street so, despite the large crowds, this a safe place to party.

For general info on 6th Street see: www.6street.com
Bar/club descriptions can be found at: www.austin.citysearch.com


The Follie of It All
If bar hopping is not your scene or you simply want a fun way to start off the evening, then don’t miss Esther’s Follies. Show times start at 8:00 and 10:00 PM on the weekends. Expect a mix of highbrow politico humor and lowbrow slapstick with tons of crowd interactions. Be sure to call ahead for reservations for large groups.

Esther’s Follies
Address: 525 East 6th Street
Website: www.esthersfollies.com
Phone: (512) 320-0198
Cost: $18 per person for open seating


The Four-Day Itinerary: Day 3 – Saturday

No Pants, No Problem
After a long night on 6th Street you may be feeling in the need of a nice leisurely start to the day. Grab some breakfast at the one of a kind Loca Maria’s Taco Xpress. A perennial winner of Austin Chronicle awards for both its tacos and unique storefront, this is the ideal place to grab a quick bite to eat. The front door welcomes patrons with a sign in Spanish that says, “No shoes, no tacos (no pants no problem!)”. This quirky greeting sets the stage for some of the best tacos in town. The migas and huevos rancheros plates are also crowd favorites.

Loca Maria’s Taco Xpress
Address: 2529 South Lamar Blvd
Website: www.tacoxpress.com
Phone: (512) 444-0261
Cost: Tacos start at $1.50

Cultivate Yourself
There is nothing like a stroll through a scenic college campus to relax, and the University of Texas at Austin is no exception. Located in Central Austin just north of the downtown district, the campus offers examples of both classic and modern architecture used to house one of the largest student bodies in the world.

Located on the UT campus, the Harry Ransom Center offers culture buffs a chance to tour one of the world’s finest cultural archives. The Harry Ransom Center houses 36 million literary manuscripts, one million rare books, five million photographs, and over 100,000 works of art. Highlights include the Gutenberg Bible (c. 1455), the First Photograph (c. 1826), important paintings by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, and major manuscript collections of James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway, T.S. Eliot, D.H. Lawrence, Isaac Bashevis Singer, and Tennessee Williams, to name but a few. The Center is used extensively for research by scholars from around the world and presents numerous exhibitions and events showcasing its collections. Exhibitions and events are free and open to the public.

Harry Ransom Center
Address: 21st and Guadalupe
Website: www.hrc.utexas.edu
Phone: (512) 471-8944
Cost: Free

Umlauf Say What”
If you’d rather not be stuck inside and still want to catch some art, I’d suggest the Umlauf Sculpture Garden. Be sure to bring your camera to this spot, as you will see many wonderful works set in a beautiful garden setting. The Umlauf Sculpture Garden & Museum is a non-profit organization founded around the work of American sculptor Charles Umlauf. Charles Umlauf, a prolific and internationally known sculptor, created works ranging in style from realistic and abstract expressionism to lyrical abstraction during his career. In 1985 he and his wife, Angeline Allen Umlauf, gave their home and studio with sculptures, drawings and paintings to the Umlauf Sculpture Garden & Museum.

Umlauf Sculpture Garden
Address: 605 Robert E. Lee Road, Austin, Texas 78704
Website: www.umlaufsculpture.org
Phone: (512) 445-5582
Cost: $1 for students and $3.50 General Admission

Ware(house) To Be Seen
Saturday night the place to be is the Warehouse District. True to its name, this area houses bars, clubs, and restaurants in renovated warehouses. Live music can be heard in several of the clubs, but be sure to check out Antone’s, one of the country’s best blues clubs. Both local and national acts frequent this popular stop, drawing large and diverse crowds. Keep your eyes peeled – you are more likely to see someone famous in this club than you might think. If you’d rather hop around, then be sure to stop in some of the more popular spots: Fado’s for a quick pint, Lucky’s, Red Fez, Cuba Libre, Speakeasy or Cedar Street. Expect to pay cover only if there is a live band. Drinks are a little more expensive here than on 6th Street as the Warehouse District attracts a slightly older and more affluent crowd. Located between 4th and 5th Streets and West of Congress, this area is an easy bet for a fun time while exploring Austin.

The Four-Day Itinerary: Day 4 – Sunday

Brunch and Munch
There are many choice spots for brunch in Austin on Sunday, but expect to compete with after church crowds. Two very popular spots are the casual Kerby Lane Café and the more upscale Fonda San Miguel. Kerby Lane is set in a quaint house and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner 24 hours a day. The café is known for its wonderful pancakes and the fresh ingredients used in all of its dishes. Crowd pleasers include their enchiladas and Kerby queso – cheese dip served over the top of their excellent guacamole. After breakfast on Kerby Lane poke through the nearby shops and boutiques for a few minutes before moving on to the days fun.

Kerby Lane
Address: 3704 Kerby Lane
Website: www.kerbeylanecafe.com
Phone: (512) 451+1436
Cost: Breakfast star at $3

Fonda San Miguel is known to have one of the best brunches in town featuring traditional Mexican dishes and desserts. Call ahead as they usually have lines of folks waiting to feast on their endless offerings.

Fonda San Miguel
Address: 2330 West North Loop
Website: www.fondasanmiguel.com
Phone: (512) 459-4121
Cost: $34.95 for the brunch buffet

Mount This
Opened in 1850, Mount Bonnell is the oldest and one of the most scenic tourist attractions in Austin. Located in West Central Austin, this scenic spot overlooks the Lake and offers beautiful views of the Austin skyline, the 360 Bridge, and some of the most scenic houses perched on the water. Be prepared for the 100 rough stone steps and dress for the weather. And, of course, don’t forget your camera, as you will surely get some memorable shots. This is also a nice spot for a picnic, so some folks pack in their own brunch. Just be sure to toss your trash in a park trashcan – Texans don’t take kindly to litter just as the popular “Don’t Mess With Texas” slogan reveals.

Mt. Bonnell
Address: 3800 Mount Bonnell Drive
Website: www.lnstar.com/mall/txtrails/austin1.htm
Phone: (512) 974+6700
Cost: Free

Do Your Homework And Up the Ante
Austin is a vibrant and fun town. Long time Austinies may whine about the effects of rapid growth, but this gem of a city still has a small town feel. Offering something for everyone, it is also one of the most liberal cities in the country. Austin is the type of place where you can come as you are, be who you want to be, and find like-minded folks if you are so inclined.

As you are planning your trip, consult the resources below and consider timing your trip to catch one of the city’s premier music events: South by Southwest in February or Austin City Limit’s Music Festival in September (this year: September 23 – 25). The 2005 music lineup features: Coldplay, Oasis, The Black Crowes, Franz Ferdinand, Widespread Panic, The Allman Brothers, Wilco, and Lucinda Williams just to name a few. This 3-day event set in Zilker Park offers eight stages with both premier headliners and up and coming new acts. There are usually a few surprise pairings like Jack Johnson sitting in on a G-Love set in years past. Expect tickets to sellout soon and hotels to be scarce that weekend.

If music is not your thing, consider timing the trip to catch a UT home football game if you would like to see the town in full swing. Again expect tickets to sellout and book your hotel well in advance.

And finally, if neither music nor sports catch your fancy, Austin boasts a huge Halloween bash each year with downtown crowds swelling to over 100,000. That is nearly 10% of the total population. Both 6th and 4th Street will blocked off to car traffic, and expect boisterous crowds. Whenever you come to Austin, plan ahead and you are sure to have a fantastic trip.


Useful Resources:

NOW GET OUT THERE AND TRAVEL!